Coauthor of Lonely Planet guides to Japan, Korea & China. Freelance travel & culture writer. Published in the Guardian, the Independent, the Sunday Times Travel Magazine, the Japan Times & more. Grad student. Longtime Tokyo resident.
“With its wide-open spaces, national parks, active volcanoes, forests of silvery beech, forlorn coastlines and remote fishing towns, Hokkaidō is ideal for road trips….” Tips for road-tripping in Hokkaido, based on my research trip there with photographer Junichi Miyazaki for Lonely Planet’s From the Source Japan cookbook.
I grew up in California and moved to Tokyo in 2002, just after finishing college. I planned to stay for "just one year," save up some money teaching English, and then travel around southeast Asia (you know, while figuring out "what I was really going